Day 28 – Sunday, February 26 – Jaipur to Delhi to the USA

Our final day! 

Paige and Johnathon rise early for a tour of the flower market and the first prayers at a temple. We sleep in. It is going so be a long day! We meet Birgid again in the garden for breakfast. Delicious. While I close the bags Karen and Birgid hit the bookstore for at least 7 books and a marble bowl – all to be shipped home.

This will be a shopping day except for one private museum tour. First stop is a block print fabric shop. We all do damage their including several of the blocks they use for printing (art objects in themselves) and another crazy pair of pants for me.

Next is a beautiful and very hip small shopping center, Nirain Niwas. The Carpet shop made a statement with an old Indian Ambassador automobile out front covered in a patchwork of carpets. Inside I loved the variety of contemporary carpets. Birgid promised we would visit their factory on out next India journey. Several more shirts, scarves (how many of those have we purchased so far), shoes, plus this and that. We had fun!

We planned to have lunch there. The restaurant could take only cash and our cash supply was shrinking. It seams the Government  has shut down the internet to prevent cheating on exams for government jobs on Saturday and Sunday. Crazy. We returned to the hotel for another excellent lunch.

Our final stop on our way to the airport is a private museum, open  today only for us. What an incredible experience. A gentleman in the jewelry business (a Jain) collected antiquities – for many years. 2500 pieces. He collected what he loved. He passed away several years ago. His family, particularly his son, who led us on the tour together with his nephew, decided to build a new building, with their workshops on the first floor and a museum above. The business is Gyan (the collector’s first name) Jaipur. 

We walked through the first floor production shops. They employee 250 – most from the state of Bengal in west India. They come for the jobs – usually working seven days a week – to send money home. It was impressive – all these people working on these very small precious gems.

The building is beautiful – very contemporary. The French architect, living in NYC, is Paul Matthieu. His artistic creativity continues through the design and function of the museum. It is extraordinary. Everything we see is special. Each selected by the Collector because he loved what he discovered. Obviously he had a passion for collecting – fabrics, miniature  paintings, weapons, hookahs, and most importantly jewelry. The collection often inspires the designs they use today.

Next we move into the jewelry they make and sell today. This is the point where the day gets expensive. Each of us, except Jonathan, come away with a new “treasure”. The son, Arun Dhadda and I really connected – family businesses and all that. I gave him Borshiems, in Omaha as a contact to sell his work. I will send him a Duncan Aviation book. Perhaps he will visit us in Nebraska one day.

Our flight from Jaipur to Delhi is on an ATR-72 turboprop – no problem. The landing in Delhi was terrible. It was very hard but more significantly the pilot almost lost directional control. Perhaps I know too much about flying. Once again, Sam from Banyon meets us with our left bags and transports us to the international terminal. It turned our to be a journey. Now we begin the labyrinth through an Indian airport. We arrive three hours before departure and finally make it to gate with just minutes to spare. TWO complete security checks, I was angry – I was wrong. Don’t shoot the messenger.

I will do an epilogue – a top level overview of our India Adventure. Stay tuned.

Day 27 – Saturday, February 25 – Jaipur

I said it before but it bares repeating – the Rambagh Palace Hotel is over-the-top opulent. We began with breakfast outside in the garden. A sitar player serenades us, peacocks parade slowly through the tables, the elegantly dressed staff is very attentive, the breakfast may be the best we have had on the trip, and the weather is perfect. Actually the weather has been excellent the entire four weeks

Our first stop is the City Palace in the gated Old City. The former royal family actually chooses to live there now. Two huge polished steel pots – once used to transport water by sea, from the Ganges to London for a Maharaja. Actually the ship carried enough food for the entire European stay because western food was considered impure. The upstairs rooms of the City Palace are painted in an elaborate blue and white pattern. I took a great picture of Paige in her blue and white dress.

Our next stop was a not-for-profit center for textiles. The building had recently been reimagined in a most beautiful way by a Mumbai architect – I loved the minimalist design – particularly the supporting columns. We witnessed artists working – creating all these beautiful simple fabrics. The shop was a big draw – we purchased several scarves plus two pairs of pants for me – one a stunning blue indigo.

Off to a modernist retail shop where Paige found several things and I purchased a very unusual and colorful hand fan and a grasshopper made of metal. I took some interesting photos of the wall pegs that they used as a display.

We drove down a succession of smaller and smaller streets to discover a hotel and lunch. The expansive property had potted flowers everywhere. Only the Long Island Ice Tea was a disappointment.

Our number one mission for today was to visit a sculpture installation in the old fort on a hill overlooking the city. Peter Nagy, from gallery Nature Morte in Delhi began organizing these special shows several year ago. He curates the show using artists from all over the World. The work is displayed in a long three story courtyard surrounded by apartments that were used by women in the Maharaja’s court. Peter gave us a private tour. The exhibit doesn’t open until tomorrow so we met several artists who were still finishing their installation. We had only seen the work of one artist previously. Peter was most gracious.

I forgot to tell you the Fort is visited by 5000 people each day. The road up and back is narrow and jammed with traffic. At one point we get stuck by a large bus coming down as we were goin up. What a relief to finally get to the bottom. The drive back to our hotel in rush hour traffic takes an hour – and we could see our hotel from the fort. Jaipur is about four million and growing by leaps and bounds.

Drinks back in the Polo Lounge followed by dinner was especially relaxing. It was a very full day.

Day 26 – Friday, February 24 – Varanasi to Jaipur

Our last stop in Varanasi was a silk weaving shop near our hotel. Everyone would agree that the highlight was the owner – funny, quick witted, gracious – he had it all. We began in a room with several looms – two were manned and working. They looked very old, very complex. The silks they produce are definitely hand made.

Then, of course, he took us upstairs to to see the finished product. The whole experience was very much like the Jain antique shop in Jodhpur but smoother and more sophisticated. He would slowly peel back the rug, wall hanging or shawl to “reveal” the treasure. His son and several assistants keep bringing the “goods.” Of course we bought several. What great fun – just like the Jain’s he was making the process entertainment.

Off to the airport. Our flight was delayed (sound like home?) and our connection in Delhi had been changed to a later flight. The inflight vegetarian sandwich was delicious. No alcohol is allowed on domestic flights. We learn that all liquor and tobacco  advertising is banned. We change to a different airline so – we have to collect our luggage, actually leave the building and enter a different door and go through the entire departure process again. Although we were worried we would miss our flight – it turned out to be delayed as well. The second vegetarian sandwich was also good.

We had left our hotel at 1:30 and arrived in Jaipur at 10:00. All this hassle with airlines around the World is positive for General Aviation.

Our hotel, The Rambagh Palace, is another former maharaja’s home. He died some years back and his wife converted the property into a hotel which she operated before turning the operation over to the Raj Hotel group. We quickly realize that this is our first visit to this hotel. Birgid is there to greet us. We have missed having her with us.

Again, words cannot describe the beauty of the buildings and grounds. Opulent comes to mind – elegant – spacious. We quickly settle into the “Polo” lounge for drinks. We share memories and photographs with Birgid. We laugh – we toast – several times. And the handsome bar tender, dressed for a polo match, made an excellent DuncanTini. More about the hotel tomorrow.

Day 25 – Thursday, February 23 – Varanasi

I have never taken so many photographs in one day! What an incredible experience. Varanasi is one of the oldest cities in the World. It is the center of the Hindu World – their most sacred – their Bethlehem. It is the ultimate pilgrimage. Their holiest City – the spiritual capital. Over 100,000 pilgrims visit EVERY day.

We began our day at 5:45. A drive to the Old City –  a 15 minute walk through chaotic streets – jammed with pilgrims pushing their way toward the river and vendors with all sorts of things for sale. Back alleys, old Havelis, (homes around a courtyard), temples – and a labyrinth of streets. Street vendors and Pilgrams all in sync and harmony along the banks of the Ganges. We were never afraid.

Then the Ghat (steps) – more than 100 down to the river. Karen, with the help of Jonathan and Shruti + her own grit, make the decent. She had to reach the Ganges! Swarms of Indians! And it’s still dark – just a small glimmer of morning light.

The shore is lined with boats. We board our long boat operated by what looks like a 16 year old. We are on the Ganges! The Sun is coming up. It is huge – it is orange – it is just across the River. SUNRISE ON THE GANGES! INCREDIBLE! And on the opposite side men and women are are cleansing themselves in the River. The backdrop is fascinating – Ancient + new buildings. There are hostels – where the elderly come to die then be cremated at the Ganges. In fact, most cannot die in Varanasi. Their options are to be transported within 24 hours of death to be cremated there or be cremated where they live then their ashes are brought to be thrown into this holy River. We all took a number of extraordinary photographs. Check out Jonathan’s photo of the camel at sunrise. We return to the hotel by 9:00 for a day of rest.

Back to the Gangi’s around 5:00 – this time to a place downriver with fewer steps – same boat same operator. We are under a beautiful bridge – auto and related traffic above and trains below. I ask – yes India has many trains – they are the principle mode of transportation. The British get credit for this bridge and many others I suspect.

Once again I am going crazy snapping photographs with my iPhone. I brought a Sony compact digital camera on this trip – I have hardly used it. I snap images alone the river and especially the shore – boats, people, stacks of wood used for cremation. Many are purifying themselves in this sacred river. The sounds of humanity and nature are constant. Kites take to the air – dipping and souring.

We arrive again at the outdoor crematorium. Bodies, wrapped in red and gold fabric are dipped in the river then taken to wait for a fire. Others are carried and placed over one of the various blazes. Herbs and ghee (clarified butter) fuel the fire. They will remain over the flames for three hours. We see the chief mourner – probably the father or brother of the dead – carry bones from one fire and throw them in the river. This is not a sad time – it’s the beginning of the next circle of life. The demand is so heavy this crematorium operates 24/7. 

We stop to pickup two young Brahmin priests. They perform a blessing ceremony just for us, including paint on our forehead, garlands of flowers around our neck, dishes of rose metals to spread in the river and special shawls all the time while chanting their blessings.

It is dark now. We head up the river for an Aairti – a daily prayer ceremony attended every day by 50,000 to 70,000. Seven priests are on stage chanting their prayers. Two huge video screens with a feed from a drone enable everyone to see. Our boat pulls among many others – we tie up to other boats then others come behind and tie up to us. The boats are so thick one could walk to shore. Vendors walk from boat to boat – we purchase candles in a biodegradable dish to later light and float in the river. We are so packed in we could not get out if we wanted.

Finally, after most of an hour, the ceremony winds down and we head back.

A remarkable day. Everyone who has the opportunity to see this should come. It is another day that we will always remember.

Day 24 – Wednesday, February 22 – Delhi to Varanasi

Here we go again – without most of our bags. We depart from the Delhi airport in a few days. It makes sense to repack down to one suitcase for the rest of the week which entails four domestic airline flights. We left home with three suitcases + the wheelchair. I have since filled another collapsible bag with books and clothes that we purchased. In the late 70’s when Karen and I travel to India for the first time, we had thirteen – yes 13 bags. We have learned a few things. The bags we leave in Delhi will be taken to Banyon’s (our tour company here) office.

Shruti points out a small yellow automobile – a Tata Tiago which sells for 5.54 Lakh or $6,700. It was billed as a “cheap” auto which was a mistake. No Indian wants to brag that he bought “the cheapest” car. They are in the process of rebranding this auto. By the way Tata is a huge international company in all kinds of businesses. I know them as the owner of Jaguar and Land Rover which we drive. They own the Taj hotel chain, Air India, Vistara Airline and the list goes on – at least 30 different businesses.

We had a long wait in the Delhi airport. The kids and Karen got sandwiches from Burger King although they passed on the Mutton Whopper. The young man sitting behind me wore a great “Ed Hardy” sweater. Karen and I met Ed Hardy in San Francisco years ago – he began as a tattoo artist – became a visual artist (we own some of his work) then made far more money by selling his name on clothing. But I digress. The man introduced himself and gave me his card. He is an Advocate – an attorney – actually a criminal attorney. We had our picture taken. This very friendly attitude is typical on the Indian people we have met.

All the airports have really giant video screens where advertising is shown. I have not seen those size and quality in the US as of yet.

Two very comfortable cars are waiting in Varanasi and we are joined by a second guide Aman, a specialist for this area. We had requested the chicken wraps for a lunch. Not only were they delicious but the packaging was beautiful.

Our excursion for late afternoon is visiting the sacred site os Sarnath, where Lord Buddha is believed to have preached his first sermon after enlightenment. https://www.tripsavvy.com/sarnath-the-complete-guide-4686998. This  goes back to 600 BC when Buddha taught here. How wanted no images of himself and the word of Buddhism did not spread. In 300 BC the Emperor Ashoka changed everything by promoting images and writings of Buddha. The fine small museum is filled with the images in sandstone that the British began excavating in the 19th & 20 century. A couple of the key pieces are the polished sandstone with three lions, a statue of Buddha smiling and a giant column. The huge Stupa at the excavation site is very famous.

We are then transported to the Nadesar Hotel – part of the Taj chain. On the extensive grounds of the main Taj Hotel is the former guest house of a palace – now a very small but very elegant hotel. Set amidst Mango orchards and Jasmine fields with only a couple dozen rooms this hotel is a jewel. Our room is spacious and comfortable – only a few steps from the outside dining area next to the pool. We are definitely being spoiled.

Day 23 – Tuesday, February 21 – Jodhpur to Delhi

Unfortunately, travel by airline, especially in India, consumes a chunk of a day. This morning we leave our hotel in Jodhpur around noon and arrive at our hotel in Delhi around 5:30. Actual time in the air is only one hour.

The BIG excitement of the day was a Yogi male showing up for our flight nude. This 2019 article explains it very well. https://www.reuters.com/article/us-india-religion-kumbh/mysterious-naked-holy-men-a-huge-draw-at-indias-kumbh-mela-idUSKCN1PB0HU  By the time we spot him, the airport officials have put a piece of fabric over his lower half. We can still see his ash (ashes from a human cremation) covered upper body and face. They escort him to a private room.

This is a small and very crowded airport. Airlines are coming and going quickly. Every step of the process is crowded and takes time. I worry our valuables will not show up out of the X-ray. The crowd waiting for their things blocks us. However, I know better. The Indians are very trustworthy – no one takes what does not belong to them.

Our landing in Delhi (we are flying in an Airbus 321) was a mini crash landing – by far the worst landing of the journey. I am amazed that the nose gear can take such a blow. I was taught to fly by my dear friend Harry Barr. He would not tolerate a bad or hard landing. Harry said that only happened with a lazy pilot – we had a very lazy pilot today.

On the way to the hotel, at a roundabout we see Hinjra – cross dressers, begging. https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&ved=2ahUKEwjYtJ3Mvaj9AhUXmGoFHTRbB_UQFnoECB4QAQ&url=https%3A%2F%2Fen.wikipedia.org%2Fwiki%2FHijra_(South_Asia)&usg=AOvVaw2WvsHgKHtxPrv0bqHNgRjx. We have a good conversation in the van on this subject. We are all of the same mind

Drinks in our hotel (did I tell you how much we love The Imperial Hotel in Delhi?) is relaxing. The handsome Sikh bartender is fascinated with my Duncantini card. The kids and Karen play Spite and Malace.

Dinner in the hotel restaurant “The Spice Market” is again wonderful. It is such a beautiful space. We are so fortunate.

Day 22 – Monday, February 20 – Jodhpur

This morning we drive about an hour out of Jodhpur southwest toward the area of Barmer. Shruti informs us that the large green bundles we see for sale all along the road is fresh cut alfalfa for the cattle. Jonathan asks to stop, they jump out and purchase six bundles for 20 Rupees (25 cents) and Paige feeds the cattle – all undertaken to boost Paige’s Karma.  The rest of the roads are narrow and mostly dirt so we transfer to an open “Jeep”.

Our first stop is a local potter who demonstrates how he works by throwing two small decorative pots. His work is making the larger water pots (the dark ones have yet to be fired – the white ones are ready for sale) for about $2.50 each. They only last a few months. By the way this house has a stand alone bathroom. The government will grant households 120,000 R ($1,450) to build a detached bathroom with a sign explaining the grant. If fact many things the government funds must be acknowledged with a sign.

Next is a Bishnoi Tribal Village. The matron is probably in her 50’s, with the daughter-in-law in her 20’s and her small 2 1/2 year old son (the one wearing a goat bell) and the baby girl just a few month’s old. The man is away working. My pictures show their living conditions. Inside one of the huts we spot a cell phone and a charger. How is this possible? On one roof is a solar panel connected to a battery – wa la – energy to charge a phone and perhaps one light. The hut outside the fence is probably for guests who cannot stay within the fence.

The landscape is desert like. In fact their Sandhills is not far to the west. The heat in the months of April, May, and June is incredible. Then the monsoons start. Crops are quickly planted. Concrete cisterns gather water for the rest of the year. Some of the trees are adorned with yellow blossoms which also provide moisture to the cattle.

On to the house of a native weaver making a rare textile known as “Gundha”. The spinning wheel is very very old technology but it works. The process is slow. He throws a “shuttle” back and forth. We also get a demonstration of spinning the yarn. I take many photographs of the family. He sells us an old spare shuttle.

By now we have been out in the sun and heat in an open safari “Jeep” for almost two hours when we pull into destination for lunch. I am so pleased to see our van there – we will not have to retrace our tracks.

In the past the village leaders were called “Thakur”. Although titles are gone many Thakur’s have retained their family mini castle. We meet this owner, get a tour of the property and see the many renovations that he has done. We go, into what we would call an air conditioned “wine cellar,” where we have a delicious lunch. He relates his families history including a close family friend from Scotland with the surname “Duncan”

Karen elects to remain in the hotel as the three of us head back to Mehrangarh Fort for a private tour of this stunningly restored private fort by their bright, young woman curator. We get insider access to the collections and rooms not accessible to the public. We learn that the collection of antiquities was donated by a wealthy local collector. They are a private trust with admission ticket sales by the million+ visitors funding operations. We exit through an extensive gift shop – too bad we have to hurry back to the hotel for dinner. This entire experience was very very special.

I failed to mention that when we ordered drinks at the hotel the waiter told us the bartender remembered my DuncanTini from five years ago. The story I tell is: That I helped raise a fine family – I helped build a very successful business – but now, I am known for my DuncanTini. I guess it is better than not being known for anything.

Day 21 – Sunday, February 19 – Jodhpur

Finally a day of rest – well almost.

This is the first time on this trip that Western guests outnumber native Indians at our hotel. I have no explanation except this is a different city. I also noticed the locals dress is much more Western – blue jeans and uncovered faces. At 6:00 the call to prayers began. We can hear it clearly through our closed windows.

After breakfast Paige and Jonathan head out for a tour of the majestic Mehrangarh Fort. Our room faces the huge stone wall with the Fort perched on the top right. My photograph taken in the early light shows it all, including the bright blue houses below.

Since Karen and I were there with the Grans – we elect to remain at the hotel.

Just after 1:00 we move next door to “The Step Well House Cafe.” We have a front row seat to this incredible architectural achievement. Toorji Ka Jhalra Bavdi – Jodhpur’s most significant Step Well. Built in the 1740s, submerged for decades, it’s recent restoration uncovered over 200 feet of hand carved treasure. Today we witness young men jumping from varies levels into the water below. Dozens of locals sit all around the wall to watch. It is quite a spectacle. Lunch, again with Long Island Ice Teas, is good. The rice pudding, served hot, cannot hold a candle to Karen’s rice pudding.

Back to the hotel for more relaxing then we take a small car and a Tuk Tuk to the Palace Hotel. This is worth checking out: https://www.tajhotels.com/en-in/taj/umaid-bhawan-palace-jodhpur/stories/   We had eaten there with the Grans. It is a hotel, a restaurant/bar and a residence for the family that built it years ago. Again, the pictures are worth a 1000 words. A great end to another great day in India

Day 20 – Saturday, February 18 – Sujan Jawai to Jodhpurs

We really hate to leave this wonderful oasis – but we say that about every departure on our India adventure. We will definitely return AND we would love to experience their other two camps.

One last stop at reception/gift shop. I have been taken by the photographs throughout the Camp – all black and white with the only color being the red turbans of the Rabari clansmen. They are all oversized – large art works of all kinds appeal to me. I order four – to be printed on canvas in Delhi then rolled and shipped to Mumbai to join our art shipment. Two walking sticks from the shop will join all in Mumbai.

We are excited to again join Shruti and our driver. Birgid advised we stop at a Rabari fabric shop – they have unique and beautiful fabrics. We go a bit crazy in a tiny shop. We probably purchased seven or eight pieces between us – the total came to $120. No one was there when we arrived by the time we leave there is a line outside.

I decided to take notes on our three hour drive to Jodhpurs. This is a land of marble – we see marble shops frequently – but have you ever seen marble/granite fence posts. We did today – many times. Shruti’s lesson for the day is on Shiva, the oldest and the longest lasting God. Driving on a fast and very good interstate it is not unusual to see someone driving the opposite direction on the shoulder. And of course there are cattle just off the road or in the median. They seem unfazed by the traffic.

Much of the traffic are huge trucks often with tassels hanging behind. Of course they are adorned with all kinds of crazy paint jobs. I have seen lots of billboards advertising various cement companies – many with interesting graphics. Again, very difficult to get photos. There are many small children everywhere in India – they are why India is/will be surpassing China in population.

Reflecting back on the Camp I met an Indian man from Delhi who was there with part of his family. His son is currently living in LA. His family is a steel supplier to India’s automotive industry. He was most congenial. I gave him my card – he will send me his contact information – perhaps we can have dinner in Delhi someday. We also met a family of five from Kenya. They operate a Safari Lodge named “House In The Wild” I believe I heard him say he flys his three children to school in a Cessna 206. Crazy.

We see many shops called “English Wine Shop” which means they sell typical English and other liquors, not really wine. As we approach Jodhpurs we are told it used to be much smaller – a place where retired military like to live. Like so many other Indian communities it is now over a million. It earns the title of “Blue City” from the many residences and buildings painter an indigo blue.

We stop for lunch around 2:00. Khaas Bagh is incredible (I am aware I us many adjectives – it is not possible to describe our adventure without doing so). A former grand residence, a wonderful antique automobile collection and an excellent restaurant are nestled in this bustling city. Look it up and check out the bar and regular menu’s both themed around automobiles. My Father was an automobile dealer at one point in his life and I have loved fine auto’s every since. I ordered Chicken bits encrusted in a coconut panko fried crust with an apricot dipping sauce. Everyone thought mine was the best. We plan to try this at home.

One of the highlights of out 2018 visit with the Grans to India was a stop at an antique shop owned by a Jain family. These may be the best salesmen in the World. A Jewish jeweler from NYC told Shruti that the Jain’s are 10x sharper than any Jew. Of course the Jain brother we meet today says he remembers us (we met another brother in ‘18) They brought fabrics up form the lower level so we did not have to negotiate the stairs. We bought shawls, wall hangings, and a bronze figurative horse. Then he started to bring out the “old” the “rare” and the “family heirlooms”. We added a carpet then an ancient carved marble door. I begged him to stop. We had so much fun. Kathryn LeBaron had seen an Indian box made of bone tiles then painted. She wanted one. We asked and of course they brought out several. It was around 6:30 AM Lincoln time so I texted LeBaron’s – we did a FaceTime call and they picked the box they wanted. Go technology! The bill was so substantial I had to use two credit cards. We photographed everything and Karen even signed some pieces. Then the shipper showed up – another substantial bill with a promise it would be crated and delivered to our home within three weeks. I have no doubt it will be.

We must leave our van behind, transferring to a Tuk Tuk and a small car to navigate the very narrow and crowed streets to our hotel. There are hundreds of shops – lot’s of opportunities. Dinner at the hotel was, again, excellent although most were too full from lunch to eat much. Off to bed – tomorrow will be another day.

Day 19 – Friday, February 17 – Sujan Jawai

We embark on another early morning Safari around 6:15 – wrapped in a blanket and clutching our hot water bottle. And again, we see not much of anything, however the sounds, the clear sky, the light beginning to appear in the east. Just being in this magical place sends a thrill, maybe even a shudder through me. We are so fortunate to have the time, the resources, and most importantly, the curiosity and adventuresome spirit to seek out these opportunities.

We (I should say our driver) spots another leopard. This one is farther away, difficult to photograph, but clearly seen through the furnished binoculars. We move on and spot a Eurasian eagle-owl perched on a rock ledge – such a beauty. He/she is posing for us. Paige and Jonathan have a good Canon camera which I can hear firing off shots. My iPhone is silent while doing it’s work. What a treat!

The iPhone does an amazing job. I can zoom up to 15x before the shot and them zoom in after. With plenty of light I can still get amazing photographs. I often contemplate having a camera with a very long lens then I think of what it takes to carry all that equipment for four weeks. I will stick with the iPhone. Thank you Steve Jobs!

The subject of the “Flame of the Forest” flower comes up. Karen has read about this unusual tree and it’s blossoms. Our guide says we are too early – they do not bloom until March or April. Just then, as if it had been staged for us, we spot one just starting to bloom. It’s magic. Again, just posing for us to photograph. We frequently see peacocks strutting around at their leisure, flashing is with their fan of feathers. If you want to explore even further check out:  thesujanlife.com 

Back in Camp for a quick, but delicious breakfast then on to a nearby village. One of the native Rabri tribesman, who works in the Camp, takes us to his newly constructed home to meet his family and enjoy some fresh chi tea made over an open fire. The men of this tribe are easily recognizable by their bright red turbine. Construction is happening all around us – the woman are sweeping even dirt streets. Herds of goats and sheep stop us – we wait for them to pass. Karen has read that this is a matriarchal society – the men herd – the women handle all the money.

Back in Camp for an unusual leisurely afternoon. Jonathan gets a massage – I get a massage + facial that lasts two hours. The kids go off on an afternoon/evening safari while Karen reads and I type the previous day’s blog. Did I tell you that the Long Island Ice Teas here are delicious.

Paige and Jonathan saw and photographed our favorite female leopard again. I have a twinge of sadness to have missed it but ……

Dinner is another grand experience. They have the Duncantini down pat. We have loved this place, we love the Country, the people, the animals, the birds, the landscape and this wonderful “Camp”. It is so grand to have Paige and Jonathan with us. Tomorrow we move on to our next adventure.

Day 18 – Thursday, February 16 – Sujan Jawai

Love in the Bush

Sex on the Rocks (not a cocktail)

UNBELIEVABLE! A ONCE IN A LIFETIME EXPERIENCE

Two huge leopards – sunny on the rocks – mating – strolling around – mating – retreating to their cave then returning – mating. I lost count but the encounters surly topped ten. These were all “quickies”. He mounted her – a few thrusts – he bites her neck and they make this strange sound. Over and over and over again! Our guide informs us that the penis is barbed. The internet says the following: “All male big cats have barbed penises that painfully scratch female’s insides to both remove competing sperm and stimulate ovulation” The male bites the females neck to transfer the pain and perhaps a distraction.

We started the morning in our Jeep (India’s version) around 6:00 AM. It is cold. 10 degrees C – 50 F. By the way we are told the afternoon temperature is around 35 C – 95 F. A swing on an average day of 50 degrees F. And this is still winter. When we were in Delhi in 2015 it was 117 F and that’s a spring day. But I digress.

So, in our open vehicle we cuddle up with warm blankets and hot water bottles. By the way each night we go to bed we have two hot water bottles each under the covers – what a luxury. It is dark and will be til almost 7:00. We have a driver and a guide. The driver keeps scanning the landscape with a small torch (flashlight) looking for animals, birds, any kind of movement. When we stop there is a constant cacophony – a chorus of sound from a wide variety of birds. Here we are – half way around the World enjoying the beautiful landscape and listening to birds.

By 9:30 we had just about given up. I was ready to return to camp. Then there they were – these magnificent cats, covered in spots with extremely long tails putting on a show for us. There is another vehicle from camp with a couple taking photos with huge lens. They are professionals. We watch for close to an hour – the cats are still there.

Breakfast or brunch is excellent. We both get a two hour long manicure and pedicure then off to the stunning library to compose yesterday’s blog AND order Long Island Ice Tea’s. This is a first class camp in each and every way. We pass on the afternoon Safari – too hot for old people.

By the way, all the camp buildings are filled with very large black and white photographs with only the men’s turbines in red. There are leopards, horses, birds, and of course the very colorful locals. I plan to order a few.

We have our own private garden for dinner. I ordered Pea Risotto – no rice – just peas and Parmesan – incredible. We will not forget this day.

Day 17 – Wednesday, February 15 – Udaipur to Sujan Jawai

Another day on the road – in our trusty van with Shruti and our regular driver. It is supposed to be a 3 hour drive.

First I walk to the village just below the hotel with Shruti + Paige and Jonathan. It seems dead with much less activity that our first visit with the Grans in 2018. Shruti tells us the men now leave for work and they often shop in larger communities. I resort to taking lot’s of pictures of doorways. Small dying rural communities – does that ring a bell

Our first stop is an abandoned very old temple – some good photo opportunities here. The sign at the exit says “Celebrate Your Heritage and Feel Glorious” About an hour later we stop at a magnificent Jain, all marble, temple (actually that first temple was marble as well – old marble). Karen and I have been there before so we let Paige and Jonathan visit this time. Prior to this stop our guide briefed us on the Jain religion – Bankers and shrewd businessmen but only 1% of the Indian population.

Our lunch stop was in an orchard/hotel/restaurant – very fine – good food – relaxing. I size up a lunch spot for the potential for a good Long Island Ice Tea – no go here although Paige and Jonathan had a very large bottle of Kingfisher, the national beer.

Traffic is horrendous, One lane roads that accommodate two way traffic. Chuck holes, speed bumps (topes in Spanish). I am such a multilingual guy. Working on my Hindi as we speak. At my request we stopped at a dirt floor truck stop for a chai – served in small clay cups that we just throw against the rock wall when finished – from the earth back to the earth. India is trying to get rid of plastic – it will be an uphill battle, There is trash everywhere.

We left at at 10:30 and rolled into Camp about 5:00. This is NOT your Mother’s camp! You must look this place up:   https://thesujanlife.com/jawai

They offer an evening Safari drive – Paige and Jonathan did partake. We unpack and head for the out of doors bar. Some appetizers and three martini’s result in – call it a day. I already love this place.

Day 16 – Tuesday, February 14 – Udaipur

Happy Valentines Day!

Today we will focus on artist and friend Waswo X Waswo. We first met Waswo in 2018 while touring India with our four adult Grans. We purchased several works. He photographed us. He then visited us in Lincoln and met the LeBaron’s who also purchased several pieces.

Waswo works with a team of six or seven – actually they are full time employees. Some are miniature painters, boarder painting, backdrop creation, hand coloring black and white photographs. The output of all this work are 1) hand colored photographs taken before a painted backdrop. He directs and takes the photographs and 2) Miniature paintings which he conceives and often include images of himself and his partner. 

We began with a visit to his apartment in Udaipur. The coffee table was piled high with art books – including several books on his work. He, like many artists, is a collector himself. The walls, selves really any open space are filled with work. He has already donated his print collection to The University of Iowa.

Waswo grew up in Milwaukee. He is gay which contributed to what he calls his midlife crisis. He took off for an extensive trip around the World and fell in love with India. His long time partner lives in Thailand so he spends several months of the year in Bangkok.

He had held back (his gallery wants all work) two miniatures for Paige and Jonathan’s consideration. They loved the work. Birgid is working to get prices.

Off to lunch with Waswo to a gallery/restaurant outside Udaipur. The extensive building and grounds, designed by the owner are beautiful. The art work shown in Bougainville Gallery by local artists were not to our taste – the lunch was FABULOUS. The lady of the house was our host. Only open for a month the restaurant called “The Lily Court” is worth a journey!

Our destination is Waswo’s photo studio in a small village. Paige and Jonathan will be the subjects of a new Waswo hand colored photograph. The setup in his outdoor studio is a show in and of itself. Two or three assistants jump to Waswo’s commands. The whole setup and shooting probably took the better part of an hour – it could have been made into a documentary.

We all climb a set of steep stairs to his “entertainment space” on the top of his building. The locals are his landlord. Three generations of family joined us. They had just lost their matriarch. She passed peacefully at age 106 – in good health til the end. Waswo had asked that musicians play for us – they declined because it was still within the two week mourning period. We enjoyed beer, whisky, chips and some home cooked snacks from the local village women.

Back in Udaipur we found a marble shop. Thank goodness they ship. We also picked up some local jewelry. 

We were all too full to take on dinner so it was just cocktails back at the hotel. When we got up to leave a large table of locals came over to introduce themselves. Everyone is so friendly in this country.

Day 15 – Monday, February 13 – Udaipur

The porridge (oatmeal) with milk, nuts, honey, and a very sweet sauce with bits of apple was over-the-top good. Of course having Karen, Paige, Jonathan and Birgid there is a wonderful start to any day.

The City Palace in Udaipur is our mission today. Karen remembers the hundreds of steps from our last visit and elects to stay at the hotel.

On the drive into Udaipur we get more history of India – this time the Indra Gandhi and her family including her assassination by her Sikh bodyguards. This country has such a rich and tumultuous history. We really enjoy these lessons as we travel.

The City Palace is difficult to describe. Take a look:  https://citypalacemuseum.org/

Art, architecture, skinny stairs, even thinner passageways (making it very difficult for enemies to enter?), courtyards – big and small. The prescribed route goes on and on – up and down. Duncan Aviation is proud of its 4th and hopefully 5th generation heritage – the City Palace began in the 6th century and is up to 76 generations. Known for it large size miniature paintings (a specific style) we learn that there is a traveling show currently in Washington DC then on to Cleveland. We took many many pictures. There were hundreds of tourists there while we were including school classes – 98% Indian.  The City Palace is a must see in this part of the World.

We took two tuk tuk’s through the very narrow streets to the restaurant Ambrai which is part of the Heritage Hotel Amet Haveli. Seated outside we can look across the lake to see The City Palace. To our right, on an island in the lake, is a Taj hotel. We are told that much of the James Bond movie “Octopussy” was filmed there and Roger Moore stayed on the property. Not all of our lessons are about India history.

Lunch is again delicious. I vow to have only soup but end up snacking off everyone else’s plate. Paige and Jonathan are really into the Indian food. They are planning a party at home focused on what they have learned about food in India.

Back and the hotel we do more damage in the on-site shop. Shoes, Basil perfume (for me) and outfits for Karen. One will have to dress properly for an Indian party at home.

Dinner on the patio, watching the sun set and listening to a very loud wedding party below is a great ending to another great day.

Day 14 – Sunday, February 12 – Delhi to Udaipur

HAPPY BIRTHDAY, PAIGE!

We usually miss Paige’s birthday – February is a perfect time to be in Puerto Vallarta. It is exciting to spend her big day with the two of them headed to such a splendid place.

Delhi airport is beautiful. The process is long with security even tighter than the US. Our flight is delayed about 30 minutes due to a “VIP arrival.” And here all this time I thought we were VIP’s. Delhi is hosting the G20 over the next several weeks.

I had forgotten the drive from the Udaipor to our hotel is an hour. This part of India has beautiful hills and many lakes. The congestion is far less.

We arrive at our hotel to a shower of rose petals. I remember the drive up to our hotel gates. Trying to explain this experience is difficult. Take a look at the pictures. This is at the top of my list for the finest hotel experience anywhere. Take a look:  https://www.raashotels.com/devigarh/.

Our room, our 6 rooms, must be close to 100 feet long, The view – beautiful Indian hills, lakes and small houses. Five male staff helped Karen move her wheelchair. Lighted candles and flowers are everywhere. By the way, Jonathan gave Paige a bouquet of flowers and two garlands at breakfast which made her the most outstanding traveler.

A special dinner in a special room was so very incredible. A perfect way to spend one’s birthday. The pictures help however nothing can replace this experience.

We love India!

Day 13 – Saturday, February 11 – Delhi

Our final full day in Delhi – Paige, Jonathan and Duncan arrive – A goodbye dinner w LeBaron’s and Duncan. A transition day.

We began at the Museum of Arts and Crafts. This is a return visit for Karen and me but it is still amazing. We barely get started when Kathryn gets a text from American Airlines that their (including Duncan who will fly home with them) flight departing late this evening has been cancelled. I need not tell all of you this, but I cannot help it. The airline industry as a whole is the very worst managed business among all businesses. Imagine cancelling a flight with 300+ passengers just 12 hours before scheduled departure. Marc spends the next hour on the phone with their travel agent in the US (it is the middle of the night there). Finally, he rebooks on Air India to Chicago.

There is a lesson here. Remember the trouble we had getting to India? Next time we will only book non-stop flights from the US – probably Air India and probably into Delhi with the necessary domestic flights from there.

Again, Marc was successful in booking the three of them on a direct flight to Chicago on Air India. LeBaron’s airplane will meet them in Chicago when they arrive at 6:30 Sunday AM. They will actually get to Lincoln much earlier than the original schedule.

I missed the special exhibition at the Museum. We checked out the gift shop where we had good luck before – it is not so good now.

On to a contemporary Museum in Bikaner House, a former palace of a Maharaja. First stop is their gift shop. Bingo! Several outfits for JRD. We are back having fun now! I took photos of one outfit that has to be ordered in a larger size. FYI I am a medium at home – a large here. The Indian people are a bit smaller.

The show is all contemporary women artists associated with the art university in Baroda. It is first class. We recognize many of the artists. A couple are in our collection already. And I find another huge piece that I love – seven large images of the artist holding different objects with 18 smaller works – three between each large image. The artist is Gargi Raina. WOW!

Birgid switched us up to a fancy lunch at the Lodhi Hotel. We are seated outside on this beautiful day. I took a photo of our very dapper waiter. Again, the food was really fine.

The hotel had a fabulous sweets shop near the exit. Of course I needed macaroons, chocolates, and a big oat cookie. The rest of our group had moved on to load up in our van. Shruti motioned me over to the left and whispered that Hillary Clinton was arriving. I tried to take a photo – wasn’t allowed. Of course she has an entire entourage. She is dressed in a long Indian dress. I stay right where I am. As she walks by a few feet away I shout “Mrs. Clinton – I have met you before.” She stopped and turned to me “Where did we meet?” “At the White House when you opened a sculpture exhibition” I replied. “Of course – it was in the First Lady’s garden.” she responded before she moved on.

Next stop is a small, out of the way, cashmere store, Sanduq. Owned and operated by natives of Kashmir. We sit at a table for a 15 minute lesson on the history, quality and prices. Before we end the table is heaped with scarves and the price is north of $5000 US. Boy are we having fun now. We leave with several including two for me.

One final stop at “Kan” a shopping center, for a rushed final go at the Indian goods. Back to the hotel, we pack everything except our overnight things – sending two suitcases with the van. Our driver will travel overnight and meet us at our next destination. We will leave a couple of bags full of stuff to go home checked at the hotel for our return on the 21st.

Final drinks and a wonderful Italian dinner wrap up another great day. We say goodbye to Duncan and the LeBaron’s – what a fabulous adventure we have shared together, again!

Day 12 – Friday, February 10 – Delhi

FIVE artists’ studio visits are planned today! We are in India to attend the two art fairs, visit galleries, and our very favorite – meet and connect with artists in their studios. This will be a bang-up day!

The drive to Greater Noida, a city and state southeast of Delhi will take more than an hour – plenty of time for discussion. There are the four of us and Birgid, our guide Shruti and the driver. We like Shruti very much – he was a golf pro in a previous life. He has been a HUGE help with pushing Karen in her wheelchair. Shruti decides this morning to give us a history lesson re Kashmir the Indian State in the Northwest. I say Indian state however since the partition in 1947 BOTH India and Pakistan claim Kashmir. His presentation probably took 30 minutes and went deep into the politics, economic and social ramifications. I cannot began to include all he said in just our few minutes here. Suffice it to say Shruti is pro Prime Minister Modi’s approach to dealing with this conflict AND Birgid is strong in opposing Modi. The discussion was polite but neither budged on their opinion. This spilled over into the Hindu vrs Muslim discussion. Arriving at our destination about then saved the day.

By the way – an aside to all this. India has 15 different peoples speaking 18 distinct languages with literally hundreds of dialects. There are six major religions plus many tribal offshoots. Shruti called another state to order soap for Karen – He could not understand the person on the other end of the call – entirely different languages.

The first artist is Gigi Scaria, a happy positive man with a big smile. His new studio is big and beautiful – two story open space with lots of light. We see photographs and sculpture – all dealing with the urban landscape. He shows us watercolors that are beautiful. On his computer we see large installation pieces and a fascinating video project. In the video piece the viewer goes into an elevator – presses the up button and the video slowly takes you up through several floors of a parking garage (only the video moves – the elevator does not). We really like him AND his work.

We walk around the corner to meet Nidhi Agarwal – a very different personality with VERY different work. Her paintings are unlike anything we have seen on the trip – bold, colorful, large, almost dripping with paint. She paints with a spatula rather than brushes. Her assistants keep bringing out work – paintings, huge embroidery pieces, a beautiful blue work on paper and smaller framed embroidery works. The last work is a single painting stretching over five canvases, 6’ x 25 feet. WOW!!!!. Initially I felt she was suspicious of these collectors coming all the way from the US to see her work. She warmed up some and began asking questions about who we were. She asked what we did to make money? 

Around another corner we discovered Anita Dube, a very warm outgoing “grandmother” type. Her studio, which she designed with an architect friend, was fabulous – several stories high – concrete, glass and tile. She had constructed one whole wall with panels of drywall in various dimensions that can be painted on then rotated toward the street – very cool. Karen and I purchased her work on a previous India trip. Called “Five Rivers” it depicts the five great rivers of India constructed of tiny glass eyeballs. She began her life as a writer then morphed into art. She never had formal art training. She curated the 2018-2019 Kochi Biennale that Karen and I loved so much. She is a real intellectual. She is currently constructing wall pieces from velvet fabric. She told us that there are 96 apartments in this complex which only artists can occupy. What a wonderful human being.

Another short walk we meet Shambhavi. One of my very favorite pieces in the previous Kochi Biennale was a room full of farm tools – minimalist, simple, exquisite. I took many photographs at the time – the entire experience has stayed with me. Guess what – this is the artist and those tools + many other works of art are all around us. The artist, her Sister, a man with wonderful hair and a personality to go with it plus several assistants show us the sculptures inside and out. Then she brings out wall pieces made of pulp and dung. I sat next to her for chi. What a sweet woman! It is obvious she has physical health issues however her warmth prevails. Her large metal sculptures are made of iron and will not hold up outside over time. We discuss recreating some of the works in Corten steel. I definately want some of her work.

Our fifth and final stop is outside the “artist compound.” Sumedh Rajendra, a very handsome man, is a sculptor working in wood, steel, leather and glass. I am immediately drawn to his furniture – chairs that he has designed and built for the studio. They are so simple – so beautiful. The other thing we loved was a wrought iron section of fence with human figures woven in.

After another long drive back to the hotel we gather in the third small bar to drink and discuss what we saw today. It’s “our day” and Birgid already has some prices. Karen and I select Nidhi’s five canvas piece, LeBaron’s choose the multiply house wall piece by Gigi. More discussion will follow in the AM. This has been another fabulous day. Again and again we toast Birgid for all the planning, the selection of artists and all the details that make a day like this work.

Tomorrow Paige and family will join us for dinner then the LeBaron’s embark for home.

We have left beautiful Kerala behind us.

The enormous and ancient rain trees

Introduced here by the Portuguese 

The Arabian Sea

The famous antique compound in Kochin

Where I bought my Buddha.

And, I want to remember the Kerala rice

Which rivals the Arborio of Italy.

Oh, India. This is where I celebrated my 80th birthday 

I never envisioned being this old.

But, I am in the magical land of the Mughal  Emperors and the Maharajahs.

I too am magical.

Saturday, February 11

Karen Duncan

Day 11 – Thursday, February 9 – Delhi

India Art Fair Day

We plan to depart for the Fair around 11:00. I still need Rupees. The hotel will only exchange for dollars and we are both getting low already. They advise me an ATM is just across the street. One of the doormen volunteers to take me. Crossing an India street, even at 8:30 AM is a challenge – bobbing and weaving. The first two ATM’s don’t open til 9:00 (guess they have never heard of 24/7). The third is a go. I try for 50,000 rupees which is half a Lak (1,00,000 – yes that is the way it’s written). Anyway both the doorman and I cannot make it work. We finally assume that is too much and end up doing four transactions of 10,000 each. So much for my morning adventure.

The Art Fair is classy. Three large tents with covered floors are the home to approximately 100 galleries. It is spacious, clean and well lit. Birgid advises us that the best galleries are at the front of each tent. We know many of the gallerists and artists. We are having fun now. Although we have VIP tickets (Karen concedes that I can be a very important person but for this day only) for this first day preview many of the works are already sold or sell quickly. Even the VIP lounge is first class. The cool/unusual outfits worn by both men and women are typical of art fairs. I could spend the day photo documenting the “art attire.” We started just before 11:00, finally closing out our day at the bookstore around 4:00.

Traffic is it’s normal snarl. Finally we walk some distance to get out on the street. After waiting another 10-15 our van finally makes it. I am tired. The comfortable seats and the cool interior are most welcome. It is heartbreaking to see small dirty children begging when our van is stopped. Birgid passes food forward for our guide to give to the children.

Back at the hotel we head for the second of three bars for drinks and our “art debrief”. This is when we decided who gets what. We really don’t have many conflicts and when we do we resort back to “whose day is it”. We will have a rich trove of new India art to send home. We are already discussing a second “India Art Show” at Assemblage. Maybe “India Redux”.

Birgid promises another “surprise” for dinner. Devi Seetharam is a delight! Her first impression comes from the stunning blouse she is wearing. She reports it was purchased at Mango – I intend to look it up. She is smart, articulate, and just plain fun. What a wonderful dinner companion. Of course, we invite her to come to our Mexico residency. As an aside she reports that there is a three-year wait to apply for a US visa – is that ridiculous or what. LeBaron’s are most interested in purchasing her work.

Another special day!

The moth is lying in the grass.

The grass has been fertilized.

It has been watered.

It is lunch and a deep verdant green.

Is the moth an art piece?

Is the moth a sculpture?

Is it a performance piece?

Or! Is it just a forgotten, misplaced moth?

I really do not know.

Kochi, Saturday February 4, 2023

Karen Duncan

Day 10 – Wednesday, February 8 – Delhi

It is a “Good Morning” from India and a “Good Evening to most of you. The time difference between CST and India is 12 1/2 hours – it is 7:15 AM on the 9th here – 7:45 PM on the 8th in Nebraska. If you want/need to call early morning or late evening is best.

We had another Cracker Jack day on Wednesday. We returned to a gallery we know “Exhibit 320” to meet another female artist we do not know. She was every bit as strong and impressive as yesterday’s female artist and her work is wonderful. We will definitely acquire a piece. GO GIRLS! 

Her name is Sumakshi Singh. She has extensive experience in the United States including an education stint at the Chicago Art Institute. She explained the current exhibit in the gallery titled “Afterlife”. She returned to her abandon Grandparent’s home – where she had grown up – and recreated architectural works in tread. Some pieces are huge. We have never seen anything like it. She stitches the work into a water soluble fabric then washes the background away. Extraordinary!

The traffic all day was unbelievable. Way too many vehicles in too small a place. All this despite being more organized with many roundabouts which we did not see in Mumbai. I see all kinds of photo opportunities which cannot be realized from a moving vehicle. By the way we have another great guide. Kudo’s to Banyan our travel agent.

Our next stop is “The Farmhouse” and collector Lekha Poddar. Birgid advises that some wealthy in Delhi have second homes on the outskirts of this city. We arrive after a long drive to find extensive grounds and a very large contemporary home. Guests are beginning to arrive to tables set up on the lawn. We soon learn that the “who’s who of art in India are included.

First we get a tour of the home by their dedicated curator. She explains that “this years” exhibition is fabric. Last year’s art was themed around animals. The fabric collection was fabulous – both old and contemporary. They furnished a list of all the works. And of course the home is beautiful.

We met several artists and galleriest’s many who we know from previous trips. Subodh Gupta is there. We enjoyed repeating stories of his visit to Lincoln to dedicate his tree “Dada”. We remembered him cooking dinner for us – he and I were deep into the Duncantinis. Karen reminded us that we left her kitchen in a disaster. Food was available at the longest most elaborate buffet I have ever seen. Everything was delicious – Karen loved the small bowls of hot peas with Indian spices – for me it was the local hand churned ice cream. I returned twice.

Off to Nature Morte Gallery. This is the gallery where we purchased our Gupta tree. Peter Nay, an American expat and cofounder was there to greet us. To say Peter is a character is an understatement. We first checked out the gallery space where their offices and storage are located. Then, back in the van, to travel to their new space “close by” (20+ minutes in terrible traffic). This space is in an old grain storage complex. It is beautiful. The partner/artists exhibited are known to us from a previous trip.

We do not make it out of this series of really great shops without a stop at a very upscale clothing place. I favored the really contemporary dress shop next door “Lovebird’s” but the fancy place captured the rest of our crowd. Everyone except me was measured for a fabulous custom outfit. Bravo!

Back at the hotel we enjoyed a relaxing stop at one of the bars (they have three) and a delicious Italian dinner. Tomorrow is India Art Fair Day!

Day 9 – Tuesday, February 7 – Kochi to Delhi

Another incredible day! Again we have Birgid to thank for all the creative planning. I know she meets everyone and checks out all the places we go before our trip. Her advanced planning and careful attention to detail pay off time and again.

We all go hard. Up between 5 and 6 every morning and if we are lucky in, bed between 9 and 10. On a few days there is a 1 – 2 hour break but not always. We firmly believe one must keep their mind and their body active to live a long life. So far that philosophy is working.

Up at 5 – leave the hotel at 6 – arrive at the airport at 7 – depart at 9 – arrive Delhi at 12. An artist visit is planned on the way to the hotel. New Delhi is quite different than Mumbai. 17 million vs 22 million, much more geographic space, urban planned by the British with lots of trees and beautiful boulevards. Fresh temperature 60’s to 70’s with low humidity vs Mumbai and Kochi. The traffic – maybe a bit less but still chaotic.

Birgid briefs on this artist – a woman in her mid 40’s – part of her art education was at RISDI Rhode Island School of Design. She was born a bit hard of hearing resulting in her talking louder and occasionally not hearing us. Her name is Mekhala Bahl.

Each and every day we encounter lots and lots of stairs. Very few older places have a lift. Karen has been a real trooper – moving a bit slower but not complaining. These steps were tough. The studio made each and every step more than worth it. Large beautiful abstract paintings everywhere. A the most delightful, outgoing woman overflowing with energy. We loved her and her work at first sight! We immediately committed in our minds to purchase work.

She explained in detail how she works and what her mind is doing while she paints. I am unable to repeat what she said but suffice it to say she is a thoughtful, talented and committed artist. And she is prolific. Some of her work has not yet returned form a show in Singapore, other work has already been sent to the Art India Fair, still we saw dozen’s of paintings. She works on canvas, on quilted fabric, on silk – each and everyone beautiful. There is work on 36” half globes, a giant circular piece. It goes on and on. Then she brings out her smaller works on paper – dozens of beautiful pieces. And she is talking a mile a minute the entire time. I would hire her in a minute to sell airplanes!

Karen and I can walk into any exhibition and independently view the works. When asked at the finish which is our favorite – more than not it is the same piece. I guess 57+ years of marriage and 43+ years of collecting has brought our taste together. Again, among all this work we agreed on one piece as our favorite. However this is an odd day of the month so LeBaron’s have first choice. It looks like they are head for the painted spheres.

By the way the sales director of her gallery, a very sweet woman who we had met previously was there. We all enjoyed the most delicious tea and snacks. Everyone was on a high – it was such a positive atmosphere.

Karen and I have stayed at the Imperial Hotel a couple of times. It is elegant starting with the very tall handsome Siek doormen to the beautifully dressed staff. It is just the very best.

We are off to dinner at a restaurant which is 10-15 minutes away. It took us almost 45 minutes. The journey was way more than worth it. Birgid surprised us with a special guest, HG Arunkumar. Karen and I visited him in 2019 as we were leaving Delhi for Kochi. We purchased a beautiful elephant sculpture made of wood and concrete. Later at the Biennale we purchased a giant stick man. Both works were included in the recent Assemblage show “Art of India” then traveled to Clarinda Carnegie Art Museum for their India show. This is the first time we have had a chance to really get to know him. What a beautiful gentle man. A man who is working in many ways to make his small community a better place to live. And he showed us some new exciting work on his iPhone. We will see more at the India Art Fair. By the way he had a beautiful head of hair – more hair than all four of us combined.

The dinner was far and away the best we have had so far and the physical facility is gorgeous. Most often in India the Chef will come out and introduce himself – this was no exception. We will return to Delhi twice more before we leave India – we will come back here with Paige and Jonathan.

It will be hard to top today!

Day 8 – Monday, February 6 – Kochi

Each morning we meet for breakfast – outside between the hotel and the water. The service is great as is the food. I always have two lattes – wonderful.

We have three artist’s studio visits on the agenda today which is our favorite activity. The first is Sujith SN a watercolor artist. Birgid explains that one cannot make mistakes with watercolor. The paper absorbs the paint quickly. This artist is known for his large landscapes. Most are very minimalist. We found them to be beautiful. Speaking of beautiful this artist may be the most handsome Indian man we have come across.

We arrive at PR Satheesh new unfinished home. The architecture is great! Although it is still in the final stages of finish it is a beautiful, well lite, a great space to show his paintings. The artist spent his early years farming his families spice fields – then he found art. We very much like his large canvas dripping in acrylic paint – many faces – some bordering on bizarre.

The final artist is Siji Krishman, a young woman that Karen and I visited in 2019. We purchased two works – paintings on rice paper. Again her home/studio is unfinished. The first thing we notice is she is pregnant and we meet her artist husband for the first time. Her work has changed. She now paints on canvas and in much larger scale, The same softness comes through. Cohen gallery in Los Angeles saw her work on Instagram – contacted her – and the result is a solo show in LA this fall. Go Siji!

After viewing her work Birgid suggests we look at her husband’s work. He teaches art at a nearby school. He rolls out what looks like a 5’ x 10’ foot paper with a very intricate drawing of nude men and women on a large ship. We really liked it. Perhaps we should get a price.

They served us a fine Indian lunch – mutton with rice, a salad, rice tortillas. The table overlooks large and beautiful rice fields. We are told it is almost time to harvest the rice – now done with machinery. We believe the annual planting is still done by hand – one plant at a time.

We catch one more Biennale venue on our way back. It is in a large building renovated by the Biennale Foundation. It is the most beautiful of all the venues. Most of the artists shown here are young in their careers. We very much enjoy what we see. Upstairs are two sculptures by Vinu VV. Birgid points out in text accompanying his works the following: “His assemblage drawing from the struggles of the subaltern, the rituals and writings has entered the Duncan Collection” We purchased his work during our 2019 visit.

Back at the hotel each couple meets with Birgid to identify work we want to price and perhaps purchase. Birgid reports there are few conflicts (both wanting the same piece).  

We meet for dinner in the tavern BECAUSE many of us want another crack at that delicious chicken sandwich. Before we arrive they have smoked the room to rid it of mesquites. No more do I sit down and several of the little devils are circling the back of my head. One of the staff shows up with an electronic bug zapper which looks like a tennis racket with a blue light, It makes a loud zapping noise when the pesky mosquitoes are encountered. We enjoy the rest of our delicious dinner in peace. Wheels up (meet at the van) 6:00 tomorrow morning to began our journey to Delhi.

Day 7 – Sunday, February 5 – Kochi

HAPPY 80th BIRTHDAY KAREN

We will remember this day forever! From start to finish it was all about celebrating Karen – celebrating in the most interesting and fascinating ways. Perhaps I will start with Karen’s poetry about our 7:30 beginning of the day:

A pujari ceremony was accorded 

me this birthday morning

A Hindu priest, surrounded by

oil lanterns, had built a 

wood fire in a square container

In the lobby of the hotel

He had green plants and small flowers

A box filled with coconut shells

and a tiny bit of wood

A container of ghee

And different colored powders

As he added items to the fire,

he created a smoke considered

holy

All this time chanting in Sanskrit

He prayed to the Gods that I

should live longer

That I should have no problems

That my progeny would excel

And, lastly, that I should die

peacefully

The ceremony was beautiful

The priest was beautiful

I hope his Gods were listing

Kochin, Sun. Feb 5/23

11:30 AM

-Karen Duncan

It is a tradition that those whose birthday is celebrated should give back to the community. We visited a girl’s orphanage – 31 girls between 5 and 18 plus two Catholic Sisters. The girls sang and danced for us – quite a production. We brought gifts – baskets of snacks and sweets and a box lunch. They showed us where they lived and went to school. The Sister when asked what their needs were described a rear fence that needed to be replaced to keep the boys out. We will send a generous contribution.

Back to the antique shop where LeBaron’s made numerous purchases – so many in fact that the owner hosted us for lunch. 

Yes, today is my birthday:

Eighty years old and in India.

So, I bought myself a Buddha 

Two thousand six hundred

Seven hundred for shipping

Brass on a tall, stone pedestal

His right hand in the teaching mode

Surrounded by the sacred lotus

How beautiful he is

Serene and thoughtful.

Kochin, Sun., Feb. 5/23

2:30 PM

Another venue of the Biennale is next with lots more videos and some small projections that I really liked. One final venue for the day we found a great looking coffee shop/cafe. We were all too full to partake.

However the chic clothing shop yielded several purchases for LeBaron’s and yours truly.

Upon returning to the hotel, we rested for awhile and then headed downstairs where an elaborate stage was set up in the garden.  We were served cocktails and then treated to what Karen called a Hindu opera titled “The Killing of Dussasana”.  There are only two characters in this part of the play, Dussasana, the evil guy and Bhima, the hero.  Bhima seeks out Dussasana and challenges him to a duel.  With the ferocity of a lion, Bhima strikes down Dussasana and kills him.  He rips out Dussasana’s heart with his bare hands, gulps down his blood and scatters his entrails.  There’s more to this tale, but I think you get the idea. The costumes were incredible along with the music and the dancing.  I forgot to mention that this performance was a private performance only for us.  It was wonderful. We had no nightmares.

Day 6 – Saturday, February 4 – Kochi

KOCHI – MUZIRIS BIENNALE 2022-23

This morning we enter the gates of one of our major destinations (the other being Art India in Delhi). We have such fond memories when Karen and I attended the the 2018-2019 event. We know the lay of the land however the art will be all new and different. We are excited.

Of course the first thing we pass is the shop. We found numerous treasures – unique and often handmade items. They describe the shop as being “curated”. They make it easy to ship home so what the heck.

All shows like this one are curated. It is soon obvious that the current curator has a focus on video and documentary photography neither of which is a focus of the Duncan’s or LeBaron’s. There was far less sculpture and paintings than we encountered last visit. My method of remembering pieces we liked or might be interested in pursuing is to take a photo of the piece + the description with the artist and galleries name. Then Karen and I will go over those and put our favorites in an album which we will then review with Birgid. We identified 3 or 4 pieces that we will pursue.

Back to our hotel and my favorite lunch place In Kochi, actually the only place we have tried. I remember fondly back in 2019 we would return to the hotel for lunch everyday. They made a great Long Island Ice Tea. When I tried to order one today no one knew how to make it – so I coached them and the result was just fine. Also the chicken sandwich was the second best ever.

Back on the streets we headed for several other venues. The first had another great shop where I, again, did some damage. We saw two pieces by major artists. The first by Jitish Kallat, an artist that Karen and I visited in Mumbai in 2019. The work is called “Covering Letter”. It takes the form of words projected onto a curtain of descending fog. A fog one is encouraged to walk through. The words are from a historical letter written by Mahatma Gandhi to Adolph Hitler just two weeks before the start of World War II. Read more in my photographed description. This is a fabulous piece.

The next was from William Kentridge, a South African artist that we have in our collection. In 2019, at the same event, we were blow away with a video projection of his that we still regard as the finest artist exhibit we have ever seen. This year it was a video of people with puppet heads depicting Soviet leaders all set to Shostakovich’s Symphony No. 10.

Another Gandhi exhibit displayed letters addressed to him – just his name and the city – no address. There was no need – all knew Gandhi. He never spoke on Mondays. During Monday meetings with Lord Mountbatten, the British diplomat in charge of India, he would write his response on the back of these envelopes. Karen knows much of all this. Before this trip she read a wonderful tome, “Freedom at Midnight” describing the years around the partition. Travel teaches one history and a great appreciation of the past.

I always enjoy taking photographs of the people and the city landscape. This trip is no exception. I always ask before I take a picture – almost everyone agrees. Sometimes they send the photo to themselves.

We closed the day at a new restaurant with a delicious meal but only wine or beer. It seems they have a similar liquor licensing thing in. Everyone is looking forward to tomorrow – Karen’s 80th!

January 3 / 1948

Mahatma Gandhi

Address : New Delhi

Mahatma Gandhi

Address : Mumbai

All letters delivered , none 

returned to sender

A smile, a namaste and three 

bullets fired

The world stricken 

His tiny body covered in ghee

and rose petals

The loss of a Savior

Kochi, Sat – Feb. 4 / 23

Karen Duncan

Day 5 – Friday, February 3 – Mumbai to Kochi

Drive to the Mumbai Airport.  1+ hour

Navigate the Mumbai Airport   1.5 hours

Fly to Kochi   1.5 hours

Drive to the hotel   1.5 hours

Equals a day on the road – well most of the day anyway

India is such a contrast. Tall skyscrapers – shanty towns. A Mercedes with a driver – multiple people on a motor scooter. The disparity is much greater than the Western World. I did notice most of the shacks have a satellite dish, many have air conditioners, all people have cell phones.

The Mumbai airport terminal is one of the most beautiful I have every seen. Again a picture is worth a thousand words. Our airline was IndiGo. As the name suggests it is a very hip operation. The flight attendant was wearing a pin “Girl Power”. It was clean, the services was very good, and all happened on time.

Three small SUV’s picked is up at the Kochi airport (we do have a fair amount of luggage). Ours was stocked with lots to eat and drink including a chicken Kathi or Kati Roll (Indian flat breast known as a Roti). We think of them as “wraps” It was the most delicious thing I have eaten on the trip so far. Chicken, onions, peppers with like a soy sauce. Very messy but really great.

Our guide pointed out that the Kochi airport had won a major United Nations award. The entire airport is powered with solar energy.

Karen and I have been to Kochi and our hotel to attend the Biennial in 2019. I was thinking it was a city of several hundred thousand – wrong. Over one million. The guide did tell us that officially India has surpassed China to become the largest country in the World.

We dropped our things at the hotel and hit the town. First, an art exhibition in a refurbished house in Jewtown (look that one up). We discovered work by three artists that we already own including Parag who joined us for dinner two nights back. His giant foot painting is incredible. Following that we walked to one of the most extensive antique shops we have ever seen. It includes a restaurant by the sea and a small but exquisite hotel filled with antiques (which are all for sale the charismatic owner explains). The rooms of antiques go on and on – 10 maybe 15 rooms. Karen bought four oil lamps – LeBaron’s are looking at several things.

Back to the hotel for an early dinner with several drinks and lots of laughing. Tomorrow we hit the Biennale. We are having fun!

Day 4 – Thursday, February 2 – Mumbai

We found a work of art that we both fell in love with -we were totally awed by! More later.

The day started with breakfast by the pool and our briefing from Birgid. It would be a lighter day with only one artist then time for shopping and reviewing what we have seen so far.

We drove north along the coast – a road and neighborhood we had never seen before. There were lots of industrial supply shops – pipes etc. The old warehouse structures have their own beauty. At one intersection we spotted a ten foot high pile of discarded motorbikes. Sadly I did not have an opportunity for a photo.

Our destination is an area called “Compound Devidhal”. There is only room for one-way traffic and tight at that. There are lines of two-story small rental spaces occupied by a variety of small businesses. We stick our heads into a bag manufacturer, a shop full of trophies and a decrepit antiques shop full of unrestored artifacts. Some shops required walking up rickety stairs – definitely not OSHA or Karen Duncan approved.

Birgid introduces us to Sakshi Gupta – an attractive mid 40’s sculptor. She studied at the Collage of Art in Delhi earning her MFA then was awarded a fellowship at Harvard in Boston. Her medium is scrap metal. As a young student she had no money and scrap metal was accessible and free.

Her small space was stacked with sacks of scrap metal. Seven assistants were sitting cross legged on the floor welding metal. Most of these workman come from her small village and will return home for time off. They have worked for her more than ten years.

We walk around four large metal panels. I hear Karen gasp! On those four panels were dozens of birds – all sizes – all shapes. Exquisitely crafted birds from scrap metal. Certainly one of the most usual and fabulous pieces we have seen in a long long time. Pictures are stronger than any words can describe. The title “The Chicken Coup”. is so appropriate. Underway since August, she hopes to complete the work in a few more months. It is destined for a solo show at Experimental Gallery in Mumbai this the fall. We would love to purchase the piece – Birgid will get the price.

The artist led us for a walking tour of The Compound ending at a beautiful and large commercial kitchen operated by a local restaurant chain. Our group including Sakshi dined in the balcony (we were the only guests) overlooking the sizable kitchen. We enjoyed multiple courses of authentic Indian food topped off with a dessert made from black carrots (we looked them up on the internet – yes they do exist and yes they are very black).

This entire outing was fabulous! A perfect ending to our four days in Mumbai. We can’t wait to return.

Birgid took us to a top women’s shop selling gorgeous women’s clothes. Kathryn looked but they were too formal for her taste. There was a small men’s section upstairs – Marc and I looked but again too fancy.

We returned to the shop we visited yesterday – I love this place because of the cool minimalist clothes. I found a very unusual jacket, casual shoes, a necklace and picked up my altered pants from yesterday’s visit. Kathryn found a beautiful dress. I spotted things for the Granddaughters but made no purchases.

We tried an antiques shop with zero success then opted to return to the hotel to discuss art that we had seen over the last four days. My method of taking notes is taking pictures. Both couples identified several favorites but decided to wait for the Cochi Biennial and the India art fair – our next stops.

We dined again by the pool drinking a bit while eating very light.  We were still full from that large Indian lunch. We agreed to meet tomorrow morning at 9:00 for our journey to Cochi.

Day 3 – Wednesday, February 1 – Mumbai

My morning routine:

Wake at 5:00 AM, shower and prepare for the day. It is warm and humid in Mumbai however a light sweater feels good in the morning.

Writing this blog in the morning is working well – one morning in the hotel lobby (elegant) – one in our room (elegant) and this morning outside by the pool (double elegant) The garden lights are on in the pool and garden, the ravens are talking and no one else is around. Today I will go to Starbucks behind the hotel when they open at 7:00.

We began yesterday morning by returning to Mascara and Sakski galleries so LeBaron’s could experience those special pieces that we had seen on Monday. A few had already been shipped off to the Delhi Art Fair however great examples remained. I took more pictures of the sculpture by the young woman Tera Gavankar. Both Marc and I liked a tall Cortan Steel piece.

Gallery Chemould Prescott Road is across the street form a fabulous old abandoned hospital – another investment opportunity? Karen and I are very familiar with this space and the owner. The show is a large roomful of paintings by Atul Dodiya, another artist in our collection. You might ask – are Karen and I bored with seeing the same galleries and artists – the answer is not at all. The work changes, the spaces change, the fun and excitement remain. I really liked a large intricate fabric piece covered with a floral design.

As with our previous trip the back room yielded even more treasures – both in person and on the computer. In particular there were two sculptors – one young and the other seasoned that we want to continue to explore. One in particular, Tallur L.N., takes old sculptures and adds a contemporary twist.

This same gallery has work displayed in a new Four Seasons residential tower so off we go on another quest. The sales display unit occupies space of the 42nd and 43rd floor of a 60 story tower. The two story apartment has 360 degree views of Mumbai. Karen could not walk to the edge of the large windows. We ask about the price of this large apartment – $500,000 – a tenth or twentieth of what it would be in NYC. The most interesting sights are not other skyscrapers but the vast shanty towns occupying large pieces of real estate. The poor come from their village to work – the wealthy in towers provide the jobs.

We very much enjoyed the art. In particular I loved a very large photograph of an ancient scene that the artist had cut into squares and reassembled randomly. Also several hand drawn works displaying the astronomical subjects. A delicious lunch was brought it.

The next stop was a show of native quilts. The woman was a real delight – explaining the people and the process of making these quilts. Amazingly they sold for just a few hundred dollars. Both couples purchased several. And the shop next door yielded numerous treasures – scarves, vests, jewelry. It was a shopping feast. The bottom line here is that we will connect this woman with Lincoln’s International Quilt Center.

I have said it before but it must be repeated. The traffic is horrendous. Extra lanes where no space exists, U turns in the middle of busy streets, cars trucks scooters carts dogs pedestrians bicycles all trying to occupy too small a space. They squeeze past one another with inches to spare. It is chaotic!

We wrap up our day with some shopping – a fancy dress shop for Katheryn, an inexpensive men’s shop and finally a designer men’s shop where the owner/designer helps us. He measures me for a tailored vest/jacket. I am guessing he took two dozen different measurements. I have never had such a thorough preparation for a tailored garment. Watch for Marc and me in some fantastic Indian dress when we return.

Dinner was again by the pool in our hotel. It was a perfect evening in every way. We were joined by two artists in our collection. Parag Sonaghare has been mentioned early. By the way in addition to my hands he photographed my feet this morning. The other artist was a surprise. Anant Joshi created the fabulous whirl-a-gig work that we have. We laughed, told stories, talked about how we might help the artists. This is why we collect. This was another experience. “You don’t collect art – you collect experiences” Artist and friend Maximo Gonzalez.

Day 2 – Tuesday, January 31 – Mumbai

Karen has urged me to keep these blogs shorter and more to the point. So far I have been unsuccessful in that regard. It is a real drag to come in after a long day – enjoy a couple martinis and dinner then try to write – so I have decided to get up early to write about the previous day. Now that I am caught up I will do my best to stay up this way.

LeBaron’s arrived early this morning. All they had time for was to shower and dress for the day. We are all determined to get back on schedule. No one wants to miss an artist or a gallery. We all met Birgid for breakfast then off for a very very full day. By the way Mumbai seems to always have a haze – it was the same when we flew our own airplane into here in 2015. Actually it makes for some very interesting photographs.

Our first stop is a female artist, Dhruvi Acharya whose studio is in her home. We all liked her work. Being an eyeglass collector I remarked about her “aviator” style glasses. LeBaron’s favored a piece that was “sold”. Turns out she had promised it to her brother and she might sell it. Karen and I agreed on a favorite however today is “LeBaron’s Day” so they get first choice. In fact this is where our system to get first choice (Robert an even day like his birthday and Kathryn odd days to match her birthday) is unfair. It took me a while to figure out I was getting screwed – several months have 31 days and every four years we have a February 29. LeBaron’s get first choice today AND tomorrow February 1.

The next gallery, Galerie Mirchandain + Steinruecke is also known to both couples. They have moved into a beautiful space in a grand old building. Their current show was a retrospective of C.K. Rajan. The work ranges from small bronze sculptures to conceptual distortion of familiar tools to miniature paintings. We liked paintings of small houses. Of course they showed us numerous other artists that they carry. We had purchased a large piece by Manish Nai in the past.

On to a photography show by Soumya Sanker Bose. The works are about his Grandmother who disappeared at age 9 for three years. When she returned she had no memory of those years. Photos are staged and taken in the dark. I took a photo of one I liked – the detail was far greater in the photo than I could see with my eye. We have had several instances lately when a photograph is much more descriptive than the human eye can discern.

Lunch at a small organic cafe “Kitchen Garden” was delicious. By the way we are very near the hotel throughout the day. There are shops everywhere. Across the street from the cafe Marc spots a real estate opportunity. We could buy the old Hotel Carlton as a fixer-upper.

Around the corner is Aequo a gallery that has paired designers with artists. They had strange and beautiful chairs, a day bed, marble lamps and my favorite – metal screens with inlaid silver. The Creative Director is a French woman Florence Louisy (a great name).

Jhaveri Contemporary, another gallery familiar to the Duncan’s was just around the corner. I was really taken by their new space. It is rough but clean and beautiful. Two photographers were currently being shown. Then we went to the office and spent 20 minutes looking at other artists that they represent. We recently purchased from them a wild and crazy ceramic by the artist Mohan Samart. The screen shots of him show an artist as crazy as his work. I was able to get a fine photograph of a raven that perched on their balcony. I also took a 1 minute video of the sights and sounds of Mumbai that is quite wonderful.

Off to our favorite antique shop “Phillips” – a fourth generation business – just like Duncan Aviation. We ended up purchasing four wooden musical instruments that are 100+ years old. They will make a beautiful art piece.

We did one final gallery that wasn’t a favorite then on to Neuma where we dinned and drank at a great second story outdoor table. The lighted Taj hotel made a perfect backdrop and the end of another intense but great day.

Day 1 – Monday, January 30 -Mumbai

The highlight of Day 1 was reuniting with our dear friend Birgid. We first met in 2015 at the very same hotel lobby (The Taj Mahal Palace) where I am writing this blog. Kathryn LeBaron had found her through our India travel agent when she requested a guide knowledgeable of the India art scene. What we found was a new lifelong friend. She has lead us on a tour with our four adult grans in 2017-2018, then for a solo trip with Karen and me in 2019 and now our 2023 adventure. Birgid has visited Nebraska several times and stayed with us in Mexico. She is the number one reason we keep returning to India.

The lowlight was traveling on the airlines. Both couples had canceled, delayed or missed connections. Karen and I spent 12 hours in the Heathrow terminal – Kathy and Marc had to spent the night in London (at least in a fine hotel). The LeBaron’s will arrive early tomorrow AM. They will miss some of what we saw today because galleries literally packed pieces as we walked out the door to ship to the Delhi Art Fair.

We no more hit the ground than we were off on two gallery visits. This is what intrepid art seekers do. Our minibus (with what looks like real aircraft seats) dropped the three of us on a tiny bustling street. We walked a few steps to Gallery Mascara where we were met by artists T Venkanna and Parag Sonarghare plus the gallery owner Abhay Maskara. All are already friends. 

We own two of Venkanna’s embroidery pieces. He draws the work on canvas then local artisans apply the beads. The artist has moved from Baroda where we first met him to set up his studio in the corner of this gallery. A half dozen assistants were working on new works in the gallery. Several of his works were on display including two extraordinary large round pieces. His work is very sexual but not in a negative way.  In addition he has now done numerous hand crafted wooden furniture pieces inlaid with precious stones. It was a very happy reunion.

It was a surprise to see Parag there. He traveled from Baroda especially to see us. We have a great work by him – an elderly Indian man naked with his genitals displayed. It is huge. Parag came to our artists residency in Puerto Vallarta in December. His stay was short and we could not be there. He loved the experience and our and LeBaron’s staff loved him. One of the objects of his work are the backs of men’s hands. I posed for 20 minutes so he could photograph the backs of my hands – they resemble a landscape with rivers and mountains. We will see what he does. Outside we saw a large mural that he had painted over the entire gallery facade – fabulous!

Next door we visited another gallery. I found three artists of interest including a photographer that sets a stage with natives in costume depicting a famous painting. We already have a beautiful piece however we saw a giant photograph that was spectacular – so large it had to be printed on three canvases. We also spotted a painting by an Indian artist that we had seen in the Delhi Art fair in 2019 and subsequently had dinner at his home. Finally I enjoyed the sculptures of a young female – from the small silver pieces to a mural outside the building.

Back to the hotel we enjoyed drinks and a wonderful meal out by the pool. It was a perfect weather evening. As you can imagine we were very tired. The wonderful bed in our wonderful room would take care of all that.